Paris Fall 2010

Balenciaga    

by Nicolas Ghesquière

Shapes within shapes formed by

the overlapping panels of square-cut jackets.

 

A padded puffa bodice 

with loose flaps at the back.

Bunchily belted tops 

in blocks of bright colors.

Jumpsuits worn unzipped 

emblazoned with multifont slogans.

A Pop Art finale: winged dresses made of a spongy,

three-dimensional web of puffs .

Balmain    

by Christophe Decarnin

Black pantsuit with gold pinstripes.

The leg-lengthening, over-shoe flared pant.

Gold and crimson brocade.

Leopard-print frock-coats 

topped sequined trousers.

Cerruti      

by Richard Nicoll

Windowpane check tailoring.

Cranberry shades in a single look.

An elongated furry vest in a warm rust. 

Christian Dior   

by John Galliano

A brown leather highwayman's cape

over a ruffled chiffon dress 

and brown thigh boots.

A cream oversize cardigan-coat,

interwoven with blue satin ribbon. 

Blown-away collar.

A plaid mohair cavalry coat over a wool vest

and khaki velvet cropped jodhpurs.

Redingote shapes, hacking jackets,

and jodhpurs tucked into riding boots.
 

 

Punched leather so fine it looked like lace. 

Frock-coats topped whisper-light dresses.

Lingerie-as-outerwear. 

Garters, lacy stockings, ruffled blouses 

and négligée dresses. 

Gareth Pugh

An obi-belted cashmere wool coat

 with matching flared pants.

A full-length fishtailed gown

in chevrons of chiffon and leather,

with a capelet draped over the shoulders. 

A rounded shoulder into an A-line drop.

Opaque and transparent chevron stripes.

 

An asymmetrical crocheted coat

over leggings.

A leather jacket with funnel-shape folds

over bootleg wool trousers.

Giambattista Valli   

 

A fuzzy two-panel jacket

over a crinkle miniskirt.

A cocoon-ish shape

balanced on kitten-heel slingbacks. 

Giles

by Giles Deacon

Innerwear as Outerwear

Corset tops on dresses.

Givenchy

by Riccardo Tisci

A plain beige coat buttoned

over a prim lace top and slim pants.

Black velvet and satin evening shifts.

 

Skirts folding back in a flap at the midriff

to reveal snowflake-patterned knits.

Neoprene diving fabric.
 

 

Tape-bound throats. 

A puff of white ostrich on an organza T-shirt.

 

Numbers mixed leather and lace

and black velvet parkas.

 

Haider Ackermann

A long fitted dress that blended 

a satin top, a split jersey skirt,

a laser-cut leather lace peplum 

and a leather shawl collar.

Hermès     

by JPGaultier

A burnished brown leather top

and kilt under a black coat.

Trench coats in leather. 

 

A duffel coat complete with

 white shirt, vest and school tie.

A leather catsuit.

The iconic Kelly bag strapped to brollies, 

miniaturized in soft shearling.

Bowler hats.

Issey Miyake  

 by Dai Fujiwara

A funnel-collared coat in orange tweed.

Splatter-painted leggings.

A cocoon of tweed woven with silver lamé. 
 

 

Loops of knitting in green, 

mauve, pink and apricot.

Outfits draped in ropes of knit tubing.

 

A coat made from squares of 

translucent black organdy.

A beige blazer emblazoned with   

loops of fluorescent pink piping 

paired with shiny draped leggings. 

Jean Paul Gaultier 

 

Chinese silk blouses

 under houndstooth check coats. 

Laced pantsuits with Moorish details.

A trench cutaway at the thighs in front

and trailing a long hem.

A black fine wool trench coat,

cut long and open at the thighs.

 

A peacoat with a silk chinoiserie lining

and an African-print turban. 

Signature built-in-bra in a soft silk dress.

A babushka, a Masai necklace,  

a studded leather motorcycle jacket.

Mexican-blanket skirt, checked harem pants, 

and green platform sandals.

Hussein Chalayan

Glitter-sleeved, formfitting dresses 

with diagonal necklines 

suggesting beauty-pageant sashes.

Coats crossed into an X shape to button low.

 

 

Sweatshirt and shirt with

metallic-looking craters on the shoulders.

Leather jacket covered with 

crocheted piñata curls.

 

A shearling coat with matching binoculars 

and a camel poncho. 

Big-brimmed rain hats.

Straw bonnet.

Grey denim, turn-up jeans 

and grey sneakers.

John Galliano

 

Pannier-skirted caban coat. 

  Clumps of feathery fur.  

Bias-cut, chiffon gowns.

 

Printed leggings tucked into trekking boots.
Clashing prints
Tied belt

Junya Watanabe

 

A tulle bustle shooting out of the back

of a narrow military-drab skirt. 

A ruched anorak shaped like a Dior Bar jacket, 

over a skirt with a peek of petticoat beneath. 

The chic tailoring of olive-drab coats. 

A ribbed knit coat with nylon sleeves.

A nipped-waist jacket in olive wool

over full-cut trousers. 

Hooded khaki sweaters over full skirts.

Karl Lagerfeld

Embroidered turtlenecks that fell into light chiffon trails.

A swingy A-line shape in winter white

 with silver piping and zip.

The silhouette was streamlined to the nth.

 

A rigorously tailored jacket, its front folded back 

to create a kind of angular peplum, 

worn over a second-skin skirt-and-pants combination. 

Jacket with its front folded back.

Buttons ran up to the elbow on the sleeve.

The puff of black netting on a one-shouldered silk dress. 

Gleaming headbands. 

Boot-leg hose in patent leather.

Kenzo 

by Antonio Marras       

The boho look

A patchwork of florals, plaids, embroidery, and appliqué. 

Lanvin   

by Alber Elbaz

 

A belted dress of boiled wool

embellished with fur sleeves.

The rounded shoulders.

 

Shoulders emphasized with extended folds 

on a body-con LBD.

Elaborately draped dresses, 
with one shoulder, or one sleeve.

 

An oversized, double-breasted coat,

draped to smaller proportions at the knees.

Wide-angle coat shoulders. 

A silver-gray jacket lightly pinched at the sides. 

Epaulettes on a waisted, brown leather dress.

Pleats raced across bodices and hips.

 

African-inspired breastplate jewellery.