quinta-feira, 24 de junho de 2010

MENSWEAR PARIS Spring 2011

Gustavo Lins
Eye-catching shades of green and yellow.
A scarf emerging from a tubular neck ring.

Toile jackets covered in pattern scribbles.
Deconstructed and stitched up clothes.
It looked like they were turned inside out.


Backless waistcoats 
and kimono-inspired sleeveless jackets.

 A camouflage pattern made out 
of stitched-on leathery patches.

 Collarless garments – jackets, shirts and coats – 
dominated the torso silhouette.

Hermès
by Véronique Nichanian 
 Two-button suit in white cotton 
with a crepe tank top and emerald scarf.
Cream linen suit with horn buttons.

 Windbreaker-like shirts in white poplin 
or crumpled techno madras.

 Hermès Pegasus, reared across silk shirts 
worn with second-skin suede pants.

 Linen moccasins with hemp details.
Zippered windbreakers.  


Lanvin
by Alber Elbaz
Ragged seams and extra darts. 

Bubbly crepe suits in dazzling hues of 
imperial purple and faded gold.

Rough hems edging a biker-influenced jacket.
Sweaters with stomach folds 
as part of the cummerbund revival. 

 A hooded coat in a complex patchwork. 
A messenger bag with flailing straps.

 Massive chokers, leather pendants 
with grommets and shells on neck chains. 


Futuristic sneaker/sandal hybrids.
Tire style soles. 
Spongy leggings.


Raf Simons
Sleeveless white jackets with a scuba-suit fit 
and zips with voluminous white cotton pants 
that dragged on the floor.


Jackets sliced by a bright zipper at the back, 
covered by a free-flying patterned necktie.


YSL
by Stefano Pilati
Coats and jackets drawn in with a belt.

The plastron - a bib that covers or is integrated into shirts.

A cummerbund across the torso 
with an elastic back-strap.

Close-fitting knits with an animal pattern 
around the midriff.
The side vents of the jackets 
opened like a djellaba.
Rick Owens

An optical art pattern that the designer 
had photographed in a 1960s-era Berlin building.

An exceptional range of soft-and-hard textures: 
organza beside jute and black leather.

 Draped white tops and inserts of nylon.


Bracelets that looked like primeval chopping tools.
 A sleeveless leather jacket-hoodie hybrid 
was a standout piece.

Louis Vuitton
Jackets in pebbled leather.
Ultra-light parachute-fabric parkas.

Silken Asian effects included printed scarves 
and leather bags engraved with dragon symbols.

Big totes and duffels in smudgy green and blue colors. 


Issey Miyake
The dots and the crisscross texture of the fish skin 
morphed into colorful abstract plaid patterns.

Dries Van Noten
Paint-splattered shirts.
Heavily bleach stained denim.

Signature cardigans with intentional snags, 
and fastened with leather straps.

Tailored jackets, coats in bland Seventies fabrics 
or with contrasting sleeves.