Limi Feu
A leather waistcoat flared into a little peplum.
A sheer skirt trimmed in lace
and wrapped in a big crocheted scarf.
A handkerchief-hemmed skirt
grew organically out of an elongated
halter-neck vest backed in sheer chiffon.
A fringed tunic in lipstick red.
Sack-waist pants
Drop-crotch trousers
Elongated cardigan with a deep, scooped neck.
Maison Martin Margiela
Wide-legged pants elegantly cut from menswear fabric.
Manish Arora
A 1920's-ish sack dress
with gray sequins above the drop waist
and below it a starburst of hot pink embroidery.
A vibrant stained-glass tee and matching jodhpurs.
Miu Miu
by Miuccia Prada
Sleeveless shifts came with high, chin-scraping collars.
A wool minidress with a stiff flounced hem
and silver flowers.
Prim collars closed with a big cord bow.
The sweet Mary Quant-ish vibe.
Metallic rosettes dotting the front
and circling the hem of coats.
Bubble skirts, worn with a sturdy top
with perfectly nipped shoulders.
Scalloplike pockets.
The U-front dresses and square-toed shoes
brought to mind a modernized Pierre Cardin.
Black spats over the mirrored shoes.
Small ladylike purses.
Nina Ricci
Peter Copping's debut
A sturdy black coat, all wide lapels
and fake fur sleeves.
Knee-length satin slipdresses.
Focus on the bust with bustiers
that were pinched and flattening.
Knits with lingerie effects.
Silk gowns with unstitched seams
and floor-sweeping wool coats.
One-shoulder corsage dress.
3-D haberdashery floral appliqués.
Cat’s eye winged 50s sun specs.
Rick Owens
Asymmetrical jersey skirts
bunched into layered folds in front.
Zigzag tights-cum-leggings.
bunched into layered folds in front.
Zigzag tights-cum-leggings.
Asymmetric warrior wraps.
A sleeveless hooded coat in a geometric pattern.
Inspired by the 1969 film “Cactus Flower”
Contrasting color and texture in a green cardigan
over a turquoise dress and leopard-patterned shoes.
A sleeveless hooded coat in a geometric pattern.
Rochas
by Marco Zanini
Inspired by the 1969 film “Cactus Flower”
the perfect contrast of streamlined and froufrou.
A camel jumper over a blouse in liquid turquoise blue.
Ultrapointed sixties collar.
Ultrapointed sixties collar.
A round-collared tunic, with four patch pockets,
in dazzling yellow, paired with gold brocade slacks.
in dazzling yellow, paired with gold brocade slacks.
Contrasting color and texture in a green cardigan
over a turquoise dress and leopard-patterned shoes.
Ribbed, belted cardies with gilded elbow pads.
Elbow-length gloves.
Elbow-length gloves.
Roland Mouret
Silk jersey dresses with origami drapes, tucks and folds.
Mouret’s fall hood motif
Mixed textiles — melding onto a stretch wool jacket
a pair of slim leather sleeves pleated at the shoulder.
a pair of slim leather sleeves pleated at the shoulder.
A multitasking skirt, called a "carré",
which can be worn as either a top or a skirt.
Sacai
by Chitose Abe
A Rue Cambon skirtsuit
reveals itself to be a tweedy sleeveless vest
reveals itself to be a tweedy sleeveless vest
topping a blouse with the same tweedy sleeves.
Fair Isle knits.
A sweater dress with billowing sleeves.
A nylon parka material for a hooplike skirt.
Sharon Wauchob
Asymmetrically draped leather dresses
with hand-cut fringes.
with hand-cut fringes.
A fantastic slinky chain mail dress.
Jewel-tone dip-dyed and spliced chiffon dresses.
Sophia Kokosalaki
Sonia Rykiel
The oversize takes on classic menswear:
a big, boxy suit with rolled cuffs.
a big, boxy suit with rolled cuffs.
Fitted and slouchy cardigan dresses.
A scarlet trench and a frock hoiked up by a kilt pin.
Trompe l'oeil faux-layered numbers.
Sophia Kokosalaki
The late-eighties' dressed-up elegance.
Satin pants with ripples of fabric at the outside legs.
Delicately constructed Vionnet-esque goddess dresses.
Undulating swirls of copper and black cable
matted the fronts of dresses.
