Paris Fall 2010

Limi Feu

A leather waistcoat flared into a little peplum. 

A sheer skirt trimmed in lace

and wrapped in a big crocheted scarf. 

A handkerchief-hemmed skirt 

grew organically out of an elongated 

halter-neck vest backed in sheer chiffon.

A fringed tunic in lipstick red.

 

 

Sack-waist pants

Drop-crotch trousers

Elongated cardigan with a deep, scooped neck.

 Maison Martin Margiela

Wide-legged pants elegantly cut from menswear fabric.

Manish Arora

A 1920's-ish sack dress 

with gray sequins above the drop waist 

and below it a starburst of hot pink embroidery.

A vibrant stained-glass tee and matching jodhpurs.

Miu Miu    

by Miuccia Prada

Sleeveless shifts came with high, chin-scraping collars.

 

A wool minidress with a stiff flounced hem

 and silver flowers. 

Prim collars closed with a big cord bow.

The sweet Mary Quant-ish vibe.

Metallic rosettes dotting the front

and circling the hem of coats.

Bubble skirts, worn with a sturdy top 

with perfectly nipped shoulders.

Scalloplike pockets.

 

The U-front dresses and square-toed shoes

brought to mind a modernized Pierre Cardin.

Black spats over the mirrored shoes.

Small ladylike purses. 

Nina Ricci       

Peter Copping's debut

A sturdy black coat, all wide lapels

and fake fur sleeves. 

Knee-length satin slipdresses.

Focus on the bust with bustiers 

that were pinched and flattening.

Knits with lingerie effects.

Silk gowns with unstitched seams

and floor-sweeping wool coats.

One-shoulder corsage dress. 

3-D haberdashery floral appliqués.

Cat’s eye winged 50s sun specs.

Rick Owens 

 Asymmetrical jersey skirts 
bunched into layered folds in front.
Zigzag tights-cum-leggings.

 Asymmetric warrior wraps.
A sleeveless hooded coat in a geometric pattern.

Rochas 

by Marco Zanini 

Inspired by the 1969 film “Cactus Flower” 

 the perfect contrast of streamlined and froufrou.

 A camel jumper over a blouse in liquid turquoise blue.
Ultrapointed sixties collar. 

A round-collared tunic, with four patch pockets, 
in dazzling yellow, paired with gold brocade slacks.

Contrasting color and texture in a green cardigan
over a turquoise dress and leopard-patterned shoes.

Ribbed, belted cardies with gilded elbow pads.
Elbow-length gloves.

Roland Mouret

Silk jersey dresses with origami drapes, tucks and folds.

Mouret’s fall hood motif

Mixed textiles — melding onto a stretch wool jacket
 a pair of slim leather sleeves pleated at the shoulder.
 

A multitasking skirt, called a "carré", 

which can be worn as either a top or a skirt.

Sacai 

by Chitose Abe

A Rue Cambon skirtsuit
reveals itself to be a tweedy sleeveless vest 

topping a blouse with the same tweedy sleeves.

Fair Isle knits.

 A sweater dress with billowing sleeves.

A nylon parka material for a hooplike skirt.  

Sharon Wauchob

 Asymmetrically draped leather dresses 
with hand-cut fringes.

 A fantastic slinky chain mail dress. 

Jewel-tone dip-dyed and spliced chiffon dresses.

 Sonia Rykiel

 The oversize takes on classic menswear:
a big, boxy suit with rolled cuffs. 

Fitted and slouchy cardigan dresses.

 A scarlet trench and a frock hoiked up by a kilt pin.

Trompe l'oeil faux-layered numbers.

Sophia Kokosalaki

 The late-eighties' dressed-up elegance.

 Satin pants with ripples of fabric at the outside legs.

 Delicately constructed Vionnet-esque goddess dresses.

 Undulating swirls of copper and black cable 

matted the fronts of dresses.