segunda-feira, 31 de maio de 2010

Paris Fall 2010





Stella McCartney
A sleeveless coat-dress in camel. 
A beautifully spare double-breasted white coat.

Notched lapel 

A clean, linear silhouette.
Tapering trousers with deep turn-ups.

A ribbed sweater dress with deep armholes 
and a mock turtleneck.
The oversize cardigan, worn solo without pants.

Color Mixes 
A cropped sleeveless vest in burnt-orange wool
over a salmon turtleneck.

Sweat-top cottons with quilting details.

Black striped tops with slacks.
Streamlined, hip-grazing tunics.

Sheer organza overlays.
 
Stirrup pants, along with pointy kitten heels.
Shiny, patent, pointy-toe slingbacks.

Valentino
by Pier Paolo Piccioli 
and Maria Grazia Chiuri 
A spare white dress with tiered, scalloped hem.
Cropped leather jackets over party dresses.  

 Ruffles spilling down the fronts of day jackets. 

 Scads of lace patchworked together 
with point d'esprit and leather mesh. 

Tiers of lace hand-embroidered with 
minuscule, shimmering beads.

Vionnet   
by Rodolfo Paglialunga
 A lacquered cable sweater with a thick silver belt. 
Pale rose and ivory dress featured drape and knot effects.
Coats in a bold painterly check. 

Vivienne Westwood
Hole-riddled sweaters. 
Granny-ish shoes.  
Blanket coat in clashing prints.

A beautifully-cut khaki trouser-suit, 
comprising raglan-sleeved jacket and skinny trousers.
A white broderie anglaise shirt, jeans 
and a blanket-look poncho.

A chintzy full-skirted floral dress.
A stretch-lace look echoing a crochet tablecloth.

A signature Westwood crinoline in shot orange/peach silk, 
accessorised with gold gloves.
A blanket drapes artfully round the body.  

Yohji Yamamoto
 The colour palette of black, ivory and navy.
Vivid hair nets. 

 A navy bow-knotted shirt.
A slight feeling of school uniform 
in the pleated skirts.

 His signature felted and suiting wools 
were cut into wide box pleats
that trimmed drop-waisted coats, 
and snaked down 
asymmetrical bustier dresses. 

Pleats fanned out in dramatic flared trousers 
with long braces. 
Suspendered wool pants over black mesh.

A man's shirt was elongated into a dress.
The pinafore-cut dress.

Raised seams, curving around the shoulders, 
creating the subtle profile of a human face.
A navy coat, gracefully contouring the waist, 
and flaring out in a full skirt. 

Brazilian model Daiane Conterato 
veiled in a mesh shroud 
and crowned with a miniature beaded coronet.
Her coat cut in the front at the knee 
and continued in a long train. 

Slimline rubber boots with moulded shoelace details.
Low elasticized brogues. 

Yves Saint Laurent   
by Stefano Pilati
 A cropped jacket that buttoned off center 
and had a high, floppy collar.
Good-looking high-waist pants with a full leg.  

A new suited-and-caped silhouette.
The smart slash-sleeved jacket.

A graphic print georgette blouse 
worn with a pencil skirt and a wool shrug. 

The plastic film over coats 
and inserted in patches in jackets 
- an homage to YSL and the rigorous tailleur -

A caped dress in purple chiffon.
An illusion neckline. 
A chunky gold chain and pendant.

A yoked white blouse with full sleeves.
Gloves over a gold cuff.  

Figures dangling on the gold chains 
based on YSL clothes from the 70s. 


domingo, 23 de maio de 2010

Paris Fall 2010




Limi Feu
A leather waistcoat flared into a little peplum. 
A sheer skirt trimmed in lace
and wrapped in a big crocheted scarf. 

A handkerchief-hemmed skirt 
grew organically out of an elongated 
halter-neck vest backed in sheer chiffon.
A fringed tunic in lipstick red.
 
 
Sack-waist pants
Drop-crotch trousers
Elongated cardigan with a deep, scooped neck.

 Maison Martin Margiela
Wide-legged pants elegantly cut from menswear fabric.

Manish Arora
A 1920's-ish sack dress 
with gray sequins above the drop waist 
and below it a starburst of hot pink embroidery.
A vibrant stained-glass tee and matching jodhpurs.

Miu Miu    
by Miuccia Prada
Sleeveless shifts came with high, chin-scraping collars.

 
A wool minidress with a stiff flounced hem
 and silver flowers. 
Prim collars closed with a big cord bow.

The sweet Mary Quant-ish vibe.
Metallic rosettes dotting the front
and circling the hem of coats.

Bubble skirts, worn with a sturdy top 
with perfectly nipped shoulders.
Scalloplike pockets.
 
The U-front dresses and square-toed shoes
brought to mind a modernized Pierre Cardin.

Black spats over the mirrored shoes.
Small ladylike purses. 

Nina Ricci       
Peter Copping's debut

A sturdy black coat, all wide lapels
and fake fur sleeves. 
Knee-length satin slipdresses.

Focus on the bust with bustiers 
that were pinched and flattening.

Knits with lingerie effects.

Silk gowns with unstitched seams
and floor-sweeping wool coats.

One-shoulder corsage dress. 
3-D haberdashery floral appliqués.


Cat’s eye winged 50s sun specs.

Rick Owens 
 Asymmetrical jersey skirts 
bunched into layered folds in front.
Zigzag tights-cum-leggings.

 Asymmetric warrior wraps.
A sleeveless hooded coat in a geometric pattern.


Rochas 
by Marco Zanini 

Inspired by the 1969 film “Cactus Flower” 
 the perfect contrast of streamlined and froufrou.

 A camel jumper over a blouse in liquid turquoise blue.
Ultrapointed sixties collar. 
A round-collared tunic, with four patch pockets, 
in dazzling yellow, paired with gold brocade slacks.


Contrasting color and texture in a green cardigan
over a turquoise dress and leopard-patterned shoes.
Ribbed, belted cardies with gilded elbow pads.
Elbow-length gloves.
Roland Mouret
Silk jersey dresses with origami drapes, tucks and folds.

Mouret’s fall hood motif
Mixed textiles — melding onto a stretch wool jacket
 a pair of slim leather sleeves pleated at the shoulder.
 
A multitasking skirt, called a "carré", 
which can be worn as either a top or a skirt.
Sacai 
by Chitose Abe
A Rue Cambon skirtsuit
reveals itself to be a tweedy sleeveless vest 
topping a blouse with the same tweedy sleeves.
Fair Isle knits.

 A sweater dress with billowing sleeves.
A nylon parka material for a hooplike skirt.  

Sharon Wauchob
 Asymmetrically draped leather dresses 
with hand-cut fringes.

 A fantastic slinky chain mail dress. 
Jewel-tone dip-dyed and spliced chiffon dresses.

 Sonia Rykiel
 The oversize takes on classic menswear:
a big, boxy suit with rolled cuffs. 
Fitted and slouchy cardigan dresses.

 A scarlet trench and a frock hoiked up by a kilt pin.

Trompe l'oeil faux-layered numbers.

Sophia Kokosalaki
 The late-eighties' dressed-up elegance.

 Satin pants with ripples of fabric at the outside legs.

 Delicately constructed Vionnet-esque goddess dresses.

 Undulating swirls of copper and black cable 
matted the fronts of dresses.