quinta-feira, 24 de junho de 2010

MENSWEAR PARIS Spring 2011

Gustavo Lins
Eye-catching shades of green and yellow.
A scarf emerging from a tubular neck ring.

Toile jackets covered in pattern scribbles.
Deconstructed and stitched up clothes.
It looked like they were turned inside out.


Backless waistcoats 
and kimono-inspired sleeveless jackets.

 A camouflage pattern made out 
of stitched-on leathery patches.

 Collarless garments – jackets, shirts and coats – 
dominated the torso silhouette.

Hermès
by Véronique Nichanian 
 Two-button suit in white cotton 
with a crepe tank top and emerald scarf.
Cream linen suit with horn buttons.

 Windbreaker-like shirts in white poplin 
or crumpled techno madras.

 Hermès Pegasus, reared across silk shirts 
worn with second-skin suede pants.

 Linen moccasins with hemp details.
Zippered windbreakers.  


Lanvin
by Alber Elbaz
Ragged seams and extra darts. 

Bubbly crepe suits in dazzling hues of 
imperial purple and faded gold.

Rough hems edging a biker-influenced jacket.
Sweaters with stomach folds 
as part of the cummerbund revival. 

 A hooded coat in a complex patchwork. 
A messenger bag with flailing straps.

 Massive chokers, leather pendants 
with grommets and shells on neck chains. 


Futuristic sneaker/sandal hybrids.
Tire style soles. 
Spongy leggings.


Raf Simons
Sleeveless white jackets with a scuba-suit fit 
and zips with voluminous white cotton pants 
that dragged on the floor.


Jackets sliced by a bright zipper at the back, 
covered by a free-flying patterned necktie.


YSL
by Stefano Pilati
Coats and jackets drawn in with a belt.

The plastron - a bib that covers or is integrated into shirts.

A cummerbund across the torso 
with an elastic back-strap.

Close-fitting knits with an animal pattern 
around the midriff.
The side vents of the jackets 
opened like a djellaba.
Rick Owens

An optical art pattern that the designer 
had photographed in a 1960s-era Berlin building.

An exceptional range of soft-and-hard textures: 
organza beside jute and black leather.

 Draped white tops and inserts of nylon.


Bracelets that looked like primeval chopping tools.
 A sleeveless leather jacket-hoodie hybrid 
was a standout piece.

Louis Vuitton
Jackets in pebbled leather.
Ultra-light parachute-fabric parkas.

Silken Asian effects included printed scarves 
and leather bags engraved with dragon symbols.

Big totes and duffels in smudgy green and blue colors. 


Issey Miyake
The dots and the crisscross texture of the fish skin 
morphed into colorful abstract plaid patterns.

Dries Van Noten
Paint-splattered shirts.
Heavily bleach stained denim.

Signature cardigans with intentional snags, 
and fastened with leather straps.

Tailored jackets, coats in bland Seventies fabrics 
or with contrasting sleeves.

terça-feira, 22 de junho de 2010

MENSWEAR SPRING 2011



MILAN trends
An unlined short-sleeved safari jacket at Gucci.
Aqua at Calvin Klein.
Chains at Emporio Armani.

Prada  boat-neck sweaters   Dsquared  sorbet hues

 E.Zegna        The fabric - SEERSUCKER

 Calvin Klein      Cropped capelet shirts
Versace              Op Art patterns

                Burberry  Birkenstock style sandals with gladiator straps. 
 Bottega Veneta      Socks with sandals. 

    Gucci          Saddlebag-rucksack hybrid 
D&G           Gingham espadrilles       

Jil Sander    
by Raf Simons
 The designer’s mix of pink top with purple pants, 
rose jacket with tomato red shorts 
or turquoise sweater and orange trousers. 

      FULL-ON-COLOR  
pink with yellow
orange with purple

COLORS IN JUXTAPOSITION
A turquoise jacket over a sky-blue round-neck sweater.
The blue-soled black oxfords. 

White shirts with large single floral prints.
The op art graphism of striped pieces. 
Eye-popping angular patterns.

Dolce and Gabbana
by Domenico Dolce 
and Stefano Gabbana
 A palette of white and beige, with chocolate and black. 
Unlined jackets in sand and ivory linen.

  Corsair-style trousers, rolled-up at the ankle, 
tied at the waist with rope, 
and accessorized with peasants' rope sandals.

D & G 
The check fabric called Vichy, 
from the French town 
known for its production of cottons. 
They used it for blousons, shirts, shorts, shoes, 
and the trim on collars and cuffs. 

 The tropical print - 
a Hawaiian shirt paired with cotton drill shorts.

Burberry Prorsum
by Christopher Bailey

The biker influence loomed in vests, 
pants, and jackets with spiked studs. 

 A sheer safari shirt with a studded vest. 

 Khaki trenches and naval officer's coats 
with buckled or leather epaulettes. 

Prada
by Miuccia Prada
 Culottes and boat-neck sweaters.
Shirts with brightly colored plackets and collars.  

 Initialed waist pouches.
Terrific ribbed sweaters stacked with 
vivid, Lifesaver stripes.  

 Clunky shoes with a sneaker sole 
fused to a rope sole, fused to a wingtip.
Reflective athletic sunglasses.