segunda-feira, 31 de maio de 2010

Paris Fall 2010





Stella McCartney
A sleeveless coat-dress in camel. 
A beautifully spare double-breasted white coat.

Notched lapel 

A clean, linear silhouette.
Tapering trousers with deep turn-ups.

A ribbed sweater dress with deep armholes 
and a mock turtleneck.
The oversize cardigan, worn solo without pants.

Color Mixes 
A cropped sleeveless vest in burnt-orange wool
over a salmon turtleneck.

Sweat-top cottons with quilting details.

Black striped tops with slacks.
Streamlined, hip-grazing tunics.

Sheer organza overlays.
 
Stirrup pants, along with pointy kitten heels.
Shiny, patent, pointy-toe slingbacks.

Valentino
by Pier Paolo Piccioli 
and Maria Grazia Chiuri 
A spare white dress with tiered, scalloped hem.
Cropped leather jackets over party dresses.  

 Ruffles spilling down the fronts of day jackets. 

 Scads of lace patchworked together 
with point d'esprit and leather mesh. 

Tiers of lace hand-embroidered with 
minuscule, shimmering beads.

Vionnet   
by Rodolfo Paglialunga
 A lacquered cable sweater with a thick silver belt. 
Pale rose and ivory dress featured drape and knot effects.
Coats in a bold painterly check. 

Vivienne Westwood
Hole-riddled sweaters. 
Granny-ish shoes.  
Blanket coat in clashing prints.

A beautifully-cut khaki trouser-suit, 
comprising raglan-sleeved jacket and skinny trousers.
A white broderie anglaise shirt, jeans 
and a blanket-look poncho.

A chintzy full-skirted floral dress.
A stretch-lace look echoing a crochet tablecloth.

A signature Westwood crinoline in shot orange/peach silk, 
accessorised with gold gloves.
A blanket drapes artfully round the body.  

Yohji Yamamoto
 The colour palette of black, ivory and navy.
Vivid hair nets. 

 A navy bow-knotted shirt.
A slight feeling of school uniform 
in the pleated skirts.

 His signature felted and suiting wools 
were cut into wide box pleats
that trimmed drop-waisted coats, 
and snaked down 
asymmetrical bustier dresses. 

Pleats fanned out in dramatic flared trousers 
with long braces. 
Suspendered wool pants over black mesh.

A man's shirt was elongated into a dress.
The pinafore-cut dress.

Raised seams, curving around the shoulders, 
creating the subtle profile of a human face.
A navy coat, gracefully contouring the waist, 
and flaring out in a full skirt. 

Brazilian model Daiane Conterato 
veiled in a mesh shroud 
and crowned with a miniature beaded coronet.
Her coat cut in the front at the knee 
and continued in a long train. 

Slimline rubber boots with moulded shoelace details.
Low elasticized brogues. 

Yves Saint Laurent   
by Stefano Pilati
 A cropped jacket that buttoned off center 
and had a high, floppy collar.
Good-looking high-waist pants with a full leg.  

A new suited-and-caped silhouette.
The smart slash-sleeved jacket.

A graphic print georgette blouse 
worn with a pencil skirt and a wool shrug. 

The plastic film over coats 
and inserted in patches in jackets 
- an homage to YSL and the rigorous tailleur -

A caped dress in purple chiffon.
An illusion neckline. 
A chunky gold chain and pendant.

A yoked white blouse with full sleeves.
Gloves over a gold cuff.  

Figures dangling on the gold chains 
based on YSL clothes from the 70s.