Paris Spring 2011

Alexander McQueen

by Sarah Burton

 

 A trad McQueen piece – the tailcoat.

Raw-edged silk and slashed shoulders.

 A silk-satin tailcoat with white lapels and cuffs. 

A bib-front shirt and gold military frogging embroidery.

McQueen bumster pants made from leather leaves.

 Embroidered silk dress with slit sleeves.

 Off-the-shoulder chiffon dress in yellow-iris print.

 The Monarch butterfly dress.

Billowing sleeves.

Hand-painted feather butterflies.

 Shadow-dyed chiffon gown.

 A gown smothered in palest lavender feathers.

 A breastplate of gilded cornstalks.

Tablecloth embroidery with 3-D  crocheted flowers.

 Gold and black, square-toed, hobnail boots.

Giambattista Valli 

 Influenced by the ’60s, with mini-shifts, 

color blocking and silver accents.

 The marbled floors at Versailles inspired the Vichy check.

 Collage leopard, lamé, and hot orange into mini-shifts.

 White shirts popped up as bodices.

The giant flowers were cut from 

the cotton poplin of a man’s shirt. 

 

The Petit Trianon inspired the Baroque stucco prints.

 

 

 Gowns in bulbous shapes. 

Silver collars  Metallic pockets  Centurion-style sandals 

Paris Spring 2011

Chanel

by Karl Lagerfeld

The set recalled the gardens in the 1961 movie 

“Last Year at Marienbad” costumed by Coco Chanel.

A black jacket punctuated with cutout holes.

Classic woven tweeds.

Away-from-the-body tweed suit laid on tulle. 

 A gray ottoman dress with a slightly rounded shape 

done in silver metallic threads.

 A frothy, feather-collared sweater. 

Skinny jeans cut into tiny holes.

Straw yellow, turquoise tweed dresses 

embellished with ostrich feathers.

Nouveau flapper dress in tiers of feathers and floral beading. 

Exploded camellia prints.

A dress made from peach ostrich feathers.

 References to the film - the black lace dresses
tufted with coq feathers.
  

Inès de la Fressange in a black banded evening gown.

Ropes of gold chains and feathers.

Overlong gilded Byzantine earrings.

Thick-soled shoes with gilded filigree effects.

Christian Dior 

by John Galliano

Inspired by Marlon Brando in the 1954 movie “On the Waterfront” 

and Rainer Fassbinder's 1982 film, "Querelle".

Dior Heroines

50's movie pin-up Bettie Page- forties bangs and waving locks.

Dorothy Lamour – sarong-draped style.

 The Marine theme

Palm tree prints, sailor caps, nautical parkas
and matelot trousers.

A navy donkey jacket over a flimsy, chiffon mini dress.

Pants in khaki with a navy shirt. 

A peekaboo crocheted silk number.

A classic Dior jacket.  

Lightly embroidered gowns in sunshine yellow, fuchsia and violet.

                              Hawaiian lei         Oilskin elbow patches    

              Parrot-colored high-heeled espadrilles

John Galliano

Cropped trenchcoat in lace-edged panels and sheer organza.

High-waisted, tailored jackets belted over 

wide-legged trousers in butterfly-print chiffon.

Short trench with a hem of floral embroidery and flat tiers of ruffles.

Poiret-esque gown with silver beading.

Gossamer white gowns embroidered with silver.

The femme fatale wardrobe – a gown slipping off one shoulder.

Paris Spring 2011

Céline

by Phoebe Philo

Knee-length sleeveless coat in ivory double-crepe 

layered over a crossover beige leather vest.

A stiff halter tunic dangling with fringe.

Deep pocketed trousers.

 The  house signature - crisp white collarless shirts 

with deep, open cuffs and extended backs.

Hip-slung pants with a low-crotch and a contrast waistband.

Long exposed zippers.

Rainbow stripes across the hips and down the side seams. 

Graphic foulard prints in blue, green and red.

Straight-line wrap skirt in brown leather.

Band-collar shirt in French blue cotton.
Oxblood leather T-shirt.

Wide-leg pants in deep royal blue.

 Long-sleeved navy jumpsuit with no visible seams or fastenings.
A denim square-cut tunic with boat neckline.
 

The artisanal touch - a jacket in knotty cream yarns.

A racerback all-in-one with a front zip .

Chloé

by Hannah MacGibbon

Tea-length pleated skirt worn with
a nude leotard with a scooped-out back
 for a ballerina look.

Plain white cotton wrap dress done up with a bow.

 Collarless coat dress.

 Criss-cross pleated body.
A white shirt paired with a mesh skirt.

Scarlet ballet slippers.

Toe-thong sandal with ankle-strap.

Metal detachable necklace.

Stella McCartney

Summer pantsuits - oversize blazers worn with 

high-rise pants in pastel shades –
 rose, pistachio, blue and lavender.

Buttoned-up polo-shirts.

Tux lapels.

Masculine trouser-suits.

Full-on female moment - knife-pleated silk dresses.

Skirts double-sliced at the front.

Mid-length silk skirts with flying panels.

 Low block-heeled sandals.

 A silk dress in a botanical citrus print.
Deep slit in the front.

 Miu Miu

by Miuccia Prada

Long-sleeved, belted silk satin dresses.

Knee-covering pleated skirts.

Neon-bright minimal versions, in electric blue and acid lime.

Metallic, glam-rocker leather. 

The abstract star, flower and snake prints.

Jewel or scoop necklines.