Paris Spring 2011

Louis Vuitton

by Marc Jacobs

  Kansai Yamamoto  1971                            Kenzo Takada  1975-76 

Ziggy Stardust tour costumes designed for Bowie by Kansai.

The first Japanese designers to show their collections in Paris.

Brightly-coloured cheongsam dresses and jackets.

Thigh-slit cheongsam.

Shiny-surfaced cheongsam tasseled to the hilt.

 Lace pencil skirts over undies - accessorised with fans.

 Metallic-shot dresses with sequin sashes from waist to hip. 

Twenties-ish riff on flapper dresses.

See-through fringed dress over hot-pants.

Animal-print —an homage to Kansai—                 1973

      Art Deco stripes.  A cloisonné blue for a sleek trouser suit. 

 The giraffe print on a white pantsuit.   

Navy high-waist trousers topped with hand-beaded stripes.

Fair-streaked bang in jet-black hair.

Patent clutches.

Ankle-strap stiletto sandals.

Zebra-striped spindle heels.

Yohji Yamamoto

A strapless dress, corset laced at the back, 

and full through the hips. 

Slits at the hip  Jagged-edge hems  Built-in shawls

Hoop skirt with a dramatic drape of fabric over the hip.

A psychedelic print inside the waistband 

of a paper-bag pleated skirt. 

Satin shirtdress with acid-print body stocking underneath. 

Hourglass silhouette spliced with a bolt of printed fabric.

Silver-tasseled and fringed shawls. 

Gowns interspersed with neon, psychedelic prints.

Stars and graffiti motifs.

Kenzo

by Antonio Marras

 Dresses resembling oversized shirts
worn over colored bras.
Geisha-style platforms.
 

 Oriental-inspired prints of abstract cherry blossoms.
Long tunics and dresses over trousers, tied at the ankle.

Kenzo's signature layers.

Woodblock print.

Loose silhouettes with drawstring details.

Comme des Garçons

by Rei Kawakubo

 A stole made of two coats joined at the hems 

with four dangling sleeves.

Two-fabric jacket, one worn on each arm 

and buttoned together in front.

 Black-and-white checks and spots. 

Heavy-duty biker belts.

A fake leather dress with a pair of jutting bra-cups.

 Elongated perfecto-like jacket with extra PVC sleeves.

 A jacket cut away over a striped cotton dress.

Paris Spring 2011

Alexander McQueen

by Sarah Burton

 

 A trad McQueen piece – the tailcoat.

Raw-edged silk and slashed shoulders.

 A silk-satin tailcoat with white lapels and cuffs. 

A bib-front shirt and gold military frogging embroidery.

McQueen bumster pants made from leather leaves.

 Embroidered silk dress with slit sleeves.

 Off-the-shoulder chiffon dress in yellow-iris print.

 The Monarch butterfly dress.

Billowing sleeves.

Hand-painted feather butterflies.

 Shadow-dyed chiffon gown.

 A gown smothered in palest lavender feathers.

 A breastplate of gilded cornstalks.

Tablecloth embroidery with 3-D  crocheted flowers.

 Gold and black, square-toed, hobnail boots.

Giambattista Valli 

 Influenced by the ’60s, with mini-shifts, 

color blocking and silver accents.

 The marbled floors at Versailles inspired the Vichy check.

 Collage leopard, lamé, and hot orange into mini-shifts.

 White shirts popped up as bodices.

The giant flowers were cut from 

the cotton poplin of a man’s shirt. 

 

The Petit Trianon inspired the Baroque stucco prints.

 

 

 Gowns in bulbous shapes. 

Silver collars  Metallic pockets  Centurion-style sandals 

Paris Spring 2011

Chanel

by Karl Lagerfeld

The set recalled the gardens in the 1961 movie 

“Last Year at Marienbad” costumed by Coco Chanel.

A black jacket punctuated with cutout holes.

Classic woven tweeds.

Away-from-the-body tweed suit laid on tulle. 

 A gray ottoman dress with a slightly rounded shape 

done in silver metallic threads.

 A frothy, feather-collared sweater. 

Skinny jeans cut into tiny holes.

Straw yellow, turquoise tweed dresses 

embellished with ostrich feathers.

Nouveau flapper dress in tiers of feathers and floral beading. 

Exploded camellia prints.

A dress made from peach ostrich feathers.

 References to the film - the black lace dresses
tufted with coq feathers.
  

Inès de la Fressange in a black banded evening gown.

Ropes of gold chains and feathers.

Overlong gilded Byzantine earrings.

Thick-soled shoes with gilded filigree effects.

Christian Dior 

by John Galliano

Inspired by Marlon Brando in the 1954 movie “On the Waterfront” 

and Rainer Fassbinder's 1982 film, "Querelle".

Dior Heroines

50's movie pin-up Bettie Page- forties bangs and waving locks.

Dorothy Lamour – sarong-draped style.

 The Marine theme

Palm tree prints, sailor caps, nautical parkas
and matelot trousers.

A navy donkey jacket over a flimsy, chiffon mini dress.

Pants in khaki with a navy shirt. 

A peekaboo crocheted silk number.

A classic Dior jacket.  

Lightly embroidered gowns in sunshine yellow, fuchsia and violet.

                              Hawaiian lei         Oilskin elbow patches    

              Parrot-colored high-heeled espadrilles

John Galliano

Cropped trenchcoat in lace-edged panels and sheer organza.

High-waisted, tailored jackets belted over 

wide-legged trousers in butterfly-print chiffon.

Short trench with a hem of floral embroidery and flat tiers of ruffles.

Poiret-esque gown with silver beading.

Gossamer white gowns embroidered with silver.

The femme fatale wardrobe – a gown slipping off one shoulder.