segunda-feira, 11 de outubro de 2010

Paris Spring 2011



Hermès
by Jean Paul Gaultier
Gaultier says au revoir to Hermès in equestrian style.
A harnessed skintight black leather number.

Jodhpur shorts in butterscotch suede.
Fringed tobacco shawl.
A transparent croc leather jacket.

Wrap-over suede shirt-jackets tucked into 
high-waisted pants or rolled-up shorts.

Leather-fronted cardigans.      Knee-high riding boots.

Skin-baring jacket crisscrossed like wings at the back.
Corduroylike finish.

Translucent croc-effect with a matching Kelly bag. 
Fluid pantsuit in burnt orange.

The key piece - the leather basque highlighting the waist.

A flowing gown in ombré chiffon with the leather basque.
Mousseline capes.

The famous scarf braided into a pony tail. 
Ultra-high-waisted pants.
Body harnesses.

Stiff-brimmed leather hats.
Leather vest in reddish brown.
Moss green leather bracelets & clutch.

Kelly-inspired ‘bustier’ & belt bags.       The wicker Kelly.

Jean Paul Gaultier
The jumpsuit in dazzling 3-D stars and moon prints.

Leather jacket with squared-off shoulders.
Ruched skinny pants.

Crunchy lace entwined with denim.
Knife-pleated trenches.
Corset belt.

Victorian floral and palm fronds prints.

Drawstringed shoulders. 
Dr. Martens with the backs cut away & Patterned tights. 
Metal breastplate.

Vivienne Westwood
A dress in rich burgundy silk. 
Clashing patterns – tapestry-floral & tartan

The copper lace-ups.          Loosely-fitted silhouette.

Skirts & Pants in ruched and bunched style.

Wide-collared jackets layered over longer shirts 
and cropped  trousers.

A bodice puffed into the shape of a heart.
A single brace slung crosswise over the body.
A black and white-dotted mini-corset 
atop a vast red taffeta crinoline.

A floral ballgown cinched with a belt 
stamped with the word 'fragile'.
A tobacco gown belted over a basque waist.

quinta-feira, 7 de outubro de 2010

Paris Spring 2011




Louis Vuitton
by Marc Jacobs
  Kansai Yamamoto  1971                            Kenzo Takada  1975-76 
Ziggy Stardust tour costumes designed for Bowie by Kansai.
The first Japanese designers to show their collections in Paris.

Brightly-coloured cheongsam dresses and jackets.
Thigh-slit cheongsam.

Shiny-surfaced cheongsam tasseled to the hilt.

 Lace pencil skirts over undies - accessorised with fans.
 Metallic-shot dresses with sequin sashes from waist to hip. 

Twenties-ish riff on flapper dresses.
See-through fringed dress over hot-pants.

Animal-print —an homage to Kansai—                 1973

      Art Deco stripes.  A cloisonné blue for a sleek trouser suit. 

 The giraffe print on a white pantsuit.   
Navy high-waist trousers topped with hand-beaded stripes.

Fair-streaked bang in jet-black hair.
Patent clutches.
Ankle-strap stiletto sandals.
Zebra-striped spindle heels.

Yohji Yamamoto
A strapless dress, corset laced at the back, 
and full through the hips. 

Slits at the hip  Jagged-edge hems  Built-in shawls

Hoop skirt with a dramatic drape of fabric over the hip.
A psychedelic print inside the waistband 
of a paper-bag pleated skirt. 

Satin shirtdress with acid-print body stocking underneath. 

Hourglass silhouette spliced with a bolt of printed fabric.
Silver-tasseled and fringed shawls. 

Gowns interspersed with neon, psychedelic prints.
Stars and graffiti motifs.

Kenzo
by Antonio Marras
 Dresses resembling oversized shirts
worn over colored bras.
Geisha-style platforms.
 
 Oriental-inspired prints of abstract cherry blossoms.
Long tunics and dresses over trousers, tied at the ankle.

Kenzo's signature layers.
Woodblock print.
Loose silhouettes with drawstring details.

Comme des Garçons
by Rei Kawakubo
 A stole made of two coats joined at the hems 
with four dangling sleeves.
Two-fabric jacket, one worn on each arm 
and buttoned together in front.

 Black-and-white checks and spots. 
Heavy-duty biker belts.
A fake leather dress with a pair of jutting bra-cups.

 Elongated perfecto-like jacket with extra PVC sleeves.
 A jacket cut away over a striped cotton dress.


quarta-feira, 6 de outubro de 2010

Paris Spring 2011




Alexander McQueen
by Sarah Burton
 A trad McQueen piece – the tailcoat.
Raw-edged silk and slashed shoulders.

 A silk-satin tailcoat with white lapels and cuffs. 
A bib-front shirt and gold military frogging embroidery.
McQueen bumster pants made from leather leaves.

 Embroidered silk dress with slit sleeves.
 Off-the-shoulder chiffon dress in yellow-iris print.

 The Monarch butterfly dress.
Billowing sleeves.
Hand-painted feather butterflies.

 Shadow-dyed chiffon gown.
 A gown smothered in palest lavender feathers.

 A breastplate of gilded cornstalks.
Tablecloth embroidery with 3-D  crocheted flowers.

 Gold and black, square-toed, hobnail boots.

Giambattista Valli 
 Influenced by the ’60s, with mini-shifts, 
color blocking and silver accents.

 The marbled floors at Versailles inspired the Vichy check.

 Collage leopard, lamé, and hot orange into mini-shifts.

 White shirts popped up as bodices.
The giant flowers were cut from 
the cotton poplin of a man’s shirt. 

 
The Petit Trianon inspired the Baroque stucco prints.
 
 
 Gowns in bulbous shapes. 

Silver collars  Metallic pockets  Centurion-style sandals