terça-feira, 22 de junho de 2010

MENSWEAR SPRING 2011



MILAN trends
An unlined short-sleeved safari jacket at Gucci.
Aqua at Calvin Klein.
Chains at Emporio Armani.

Prada  boat-neck sweaters   Dsquared  sorbet hues

 E.Zegna        The fabric - SEERSUCKER

 Calvin Klein      Cropped capelet shirts
Versace              Op Art patterns

                Burberry  Birkenstock style sandals with gladiator straps. 
 Bottega Veneta      Socks with sandals. 

    Gucci          Saddlebag-rucksack hybrid 
D&G           Gingham espadrilles       

Jil Sander    
by Raf Simons
 The designer’s mix of pink top with purple pants, 
rose jacket with tomato red shorts 
or turquoise sweater and orange trousers. 

      FULL-ON-COLOR  
pink with yellow
orange with purple

COLORS IN JUXTAPOSITION
A turquoise jacket over a sky-blue round-neck sweater.
The blue-soled black oxfords. 

White shirts with large single floral prints.
The op art graphism of striped pieces. 
Eye-popping angular patterns.

Dolce and Gabbana
by Domenico Dolce 
and Stefano Gabbana
 A palette of white and beige, with chocolate and black. 
Unlined jackets in sand and ivory linen.

  Corsair-style trousers, rolled-up at the ankle, 
tied at the waist with rope, 
and accessorized with peasants' rope sandals.

D & G 
The check fabric called Vichy, 
from the French town 
known for its production of cottons. 
They used it for blousons, shirts, shorts, shoes, 
and the trim on collars and cuffs. 

 The tropical print - 
a Hawaiian shirt paired with cotton drill shorts.

Burberry Prorsum
by Christopher Bailey

The biker influence loomed in vests, 
pants, and jackets with spiked studs. 

 A sheer safari shirt with a studded vest. 

 Khaki trenches and naval officer's coats 
with buckled or leather epaulettes. 

Prada
by Miuccia Prada
 Culottes and boat-neck sweaters.
Shirts with brightly colored plackets and collars.  

 Initialed waist pouches.
Terrific ribbed sweaters stacked with 
vivid, Lifesaver stripes.  

 Clunky shoes with a sneaker sole 
fused to a rope sole, fused to a wingtip.
Reflective athletic sunglasses.

quarta-feira, 16 de junho de 2010

Pre-Spring Resort 2011



Carlos Miele
 A red accordion-pleated number 
featured a detachable train. 
A stunning blush silk gown 
with satin bodice and hanging chains. 

 Dark beaded trims added some toughness 
to a ruched satin minidress.

A black strapless chiffon look 
with a fully removable one-shouldered sequin overlay. 

Erdem
A cocktail dress in royal blue silk twill 
was hand-worked with tiny black beads.
A dress was hand-embroidered 
at cuff and bodice. 

 A romantic high-collared halter-neck dress 
with a hint of the seventies.
A feeling for Fortuny pleating 
and for flower prints. 

Gucci
by Frida Giannini
 A stunning silk wrap gown with silver beaded trim.
Saddle-printed silks.
A parachute-silk jumpsuit with elastic waist.
A whisper-thin leather biker jacket.

Haider Ackermann
 The men like exotic brigands in rig 
that was part samurai, part corsair.

 Mirrored patchworks and brocades.
Dhoti cut trousers that finished 
three inches above the ankle.

A leopard-spot camisole and pajama-striped pants 
ended in a long, animal-printed train. 
Moroccan style red slippers.

 Draped palazzo pants and layered silk tanks.

Jonathan Saunders 
 Dresses featuring a hybrid floral print 
overlaid with a laser-perforated chiffon shift.

 Chintzy Victorian florals 
interrupted by architectural line drawings.
A plain color-blocked evening dress in jersey.

Circle-skirted dresses 
spliced with sports-mesh bodices and backs.
A  draped gown wreathed in a print of English roses.
  
Céline
by Phoebe Philo 
 A sleeveless shift 
with not-so-subtle zips above the breasts. 
An army jacket extended into a coat. 

 All-over print        Color-blocking

Her full trousers were cut in crisp 
tobacco brown/white cotton 
paired with a matching tunic. 

A cotton voile tunic 
in miniature blue paisley 
with matching pants. 

A collarless coat in natural jute 
with subtle gold buttons.
Her familiar evening all-in-one, 
demure in front and daring in back, with a low V cut. 

An off-white silk satin halter gown 
suspended from a brass necklace. 
A metal choker & cuff bracelet.

Emilio Pucci
by Peter Dundas
 The white cotton boot-leg trouser suit, 
updated from a paparazzi shot of Bianca Jagger.

 A handcrafted guipure-lace shift 
that could have belonged to a young Jane Birkin.

 Beach-ready floral print kaftans 
and diaphanous wisteria-print scarf dresses.

Givenchy
by Riccardo Tisci 
 Pleated skirts, tuxedo coats and tailcoats, 
some covered in a bold leopard print. 

 The designer even remade 
look one from his breakthrough Spring '10 show,
but this time, the stripes on the jacket were crimson lace.

 A trompe l’oeil white-and-leopard coat 
over a short, flared black skirt. 
A sharply tailored jacket 
and cropped trousers with a built-in miniskirt.  

 A dress constructed in layers of 
fragile/tough black and red lace. 
Frida-esque floor length chiffon dress 
with graphic red stripes.
Lanvin
by Alber Elbaz
 A short, black A-line dress that zippers down the back 
and then reverses to reveal rows of tulle ruffles.

 Transformable pieces—a draped one-piece swimsuit 
doubles as a "robe de yacht" with the addition of a mini skirt 
and turns into a cocktail dress 
when paired with a swing skirt. 


A superlight-weight python-print silk floor-length dress. 
A scarlet one-shoulder maillot worn with 
a matching ruffle mini.
Nina Ricci
by Peter Copping
 The collection is awash in cherry pink, 
blush, and soft neutrals.
Fabrics like washed parachute silks, 
pleated georgettes, and lingerie lace. 

A raincoat cut with an hourglass waist 
from cream bonded cotton.

A classically draped cerise pink gown 
with multiple bows up the back. 
An ivory- and white-lace fitted T-shirt dress 
worn over a peach slip.

Softly structured piece-washed jacket 
and loose tuxedo pants with pleated front panels.
A retro-ruffled high-waisted bikini. 

Proenza Schouler
by Lazaro Hernandez 
& Jack McCollough 
 A strapless metallic gold cloqué dress 
layered over a black lace knit.
Laser-cut leather sandals.
Textured gold wrap dress. 

A shirtdress dyed bandhani-style - a cousin to tie-dyeing 
accessorized with a colorful geode pendant necklace.
 A high-waisted bandhani shorts topped with a Baja jacket.

Skirts and dresses covered in patterns and prints. 

 Tailored coats and jackets make the perfect toppers.
 Sweet tie closures rather than buttons and hardware.

Reed Krakoff 
 Apron dresses in camel leather, khaki python, 
or white crepe de chine.

Washed organza work shirts 
tucked into paper bag-waist shorts.
Denim woven with silk 
was cut into a crisp button-down 
and matching trim cropped pants. 

A sleeveless cashmere angora coat-dress 
and a slim trench all looked great.

A low double-breasted pantsuit.
Flat sandals in saddle leather with closed backs.