sábado, 2 de outubro de 2010

Paris Spring 2011



Lanvin
by Alber Elbaz
Swirling pimento-red silk pleated skirt.
Coral one-shouldered body-molding top.
Pleated skirt in gray silk with a tan bodysuit.
Leather harness around the torso.

A deep V-front sheath with sleeves above the elbow. 
One-shoulder style, in navy stretch cotton, 
with twin zippers at the front.

Scarves wrapped around the body.

The working wardrobe: jacket, tight skirt and leggings.
Worker’s chic: micro fiber raincoat over pants.  

Slinky ruched mini with Day-Glo lime top.

Fortuny-like pleating stretched in sheaths.
Two-tone dress in finely pleated silk. 

Beaded neckpiece / choker
Bold, graphically arranged crystals.
Flat sandals with metallic ankle-cuffs.

Haider Ackermann
 The hit of this season — long pleated skirts.
 Tailored leather jacket with an origami peplum. 

The biker jacket -  morphed into a sleeveless, belted coat. 
Zippered lapels falling into soft scrolls.
The vest in matte textured leather.

A striped skirt, split in the front, with a train.
Signature cropped jackets with wide strips 
tied in a bow at the back.

Abstracted Japanese kimono-knots.

Curving slits at the pelvis. 
A plunging neckline.

The evening tux - flying, pleated silk skirt-wrap over narrow pants.
The jacket cut into a backless halter. 

Brocade lace up pants.
Regency-stripe shoes. 
A tight curl at the back of a fitted jacket.
Scrunched-up sleeves.

Roland Mouret
Lightweight parachute silks in rich jewel tones — 
chartreuse, sapphire and emerald green.

A denim kimono jacket over a color-blocked silk slipdress. 
Parachute silk camisole. 

Mossy green print.
A loose-cut blouse over boxy cropped pants.

One-shoulder neckline with sporty pockets at the hips.

A backless dungaree in black stretch silk faille.
Ultra-fitted sheath slit up the thigh. 
 

sexta-feira, 1 de outubro de 2010

Paris Spring 2011




Pedro Lourenço
His signature material - leather - combined with sheer tulle.
Empire line column dresses.

Trompe l’oeil effect - Leather panels stitched to nude tulle.

Geometric shapes with nearly invisible tulle insets.

Monochromatic black-and-white numbers 
in leather panelled onto tulle.

 Flashes of royal blue, pistachio green 
and vibrant yellow piped in black.
A sleeveless leather coat with a curving, cocooned back.
 
Color block leather pants.
Rippling pleats on a trapeze dress. 
Trousers with front tulle inset.
 
Lozenge-shaped leather appliqués at the bust line. 

References to perfecto leather jackets. 
 Givenchy
by Riccardo Tisci
LAYERING 
a white vest over a sleeveless black jacket
   and a miniskirt over skinny trousers.

TRANSPARENCY 
miniskirts with chiffon-veiled legs

HARDWARE 
zippers drawing metallic lines across the clothes.
bondage flaps and straps

The leopard-and-chiffon layers 

LEOPARD SPOTS – on blouses, jackets and pants.
 

quinta-feira, 30 de setembro de 2010

Paris Spring 2011




Balenciaga
by Nicolas Ghesquière
Stark, crisp cottons in couture shapes 
that buckled high around the neck.

The cocooning shape.
Pied de coq / Houndstooth check coats 
made from plastic-y faux leather.

Wet-looking, plasticized textures.

One-shoulder toga dresses 
re-worked from Balenciaga in the 1960s.

Hand-painted lace — pink with blue, purple and orange.
Metal-tipped collars.

Men’s shirts worn loose, tucked in one side.
Multi-zippered vest in pastel-toned snakeskin.

Breastplates worn under light chiffon shirts.
Hard-core grommet belts slung around the hips. 

Classic men’s creeper with studded soles.
Ski boot-inspired in electric blue metallic leather.

Balmain
by Christophe Decarnin
Skintight lamé pants rolled-up above the ankle.

Blood-red dye.
Safety pins and studs enriched pelmet skirts & hot-pants.
Torn fishnets. 

Tattered stars-and-stripes tanks & frayed micro-shorts.
Padlock on a chain. 

Studded and safety-pinned leather jackets.

Candy stripes over prints on bleached-out jeans.
Pinned leather bustier top paired with ripped jeans.

Leather biker jackets covered with safety pins and crystals.

Rick Owens
Cutaway jackets & vests in paper-thin leather 
topped high-waisted full cotton skirts.

Sleeveless cape in silk cotton canvas 
with a face-framing collar. 
Cut-away halterneck top in moss green.
 
A new shape of leather jacket
Frock tail at the back and mid crop at the front.

Short dresses with plain bodices over folded gazar skirts.

Loose Grecian pleats and a yoked neckline.
Hair combs of bone.

Ruffled tulle at the ankle or shin straps tied with bows.