Alexander McQueen
by Sarah Burton
A blood red chiffon—evoked a vision of Isabelle Adjani
in La Reine Margot, one of McQueen's favorite movies.
A ravishing long red strapless chiffon dress
with a giant poppy print and an airy train.
A white kimono-sleeved coat-dress.
A tuxedo dress bifurcated by black lace.
Lace transformed into chiffon in a cocktail dress.
Defined shoulders armored like a samurai's.
A Victorian jacket was reconfigured as
a cotton shirtdress with a higher waist.
A black dress in a lacquered raffia and organza.
The BROCADES
The BULLION EMBROIDERY
Emporio Armani
A shawl-collared, single-buttoned jacket
and slightly slouchy pants.
A double-faced duchesse shorts
with a languid silvery knit cardigan jacket.
A navy jacket cut from a leather mesh.
A little draped shift with a sun ray of
beaded straps racing across the back.
Giles
by Giles Deacon
An explosive squiggle print.
A surreal doll-face visual.
A jolt of vermilion.
Giorgio Armani
Slightly shorter jackets with a built-out shoulder.
The furled lapels of one black jacket
looked like something from a Horst photograph.
A mesh jacket with a waistline
that flared into a trumpet shape.
A cocktail dress with a huge grosgrain bow at the back.
A man's necktie was abstracted as a trompe l'oeil detail.
Grosgrain French cuffs.
The waistcoat under Armani's version of Le Smoking.
Jean Paul Gaultier
The bustier jacket of a pinstripe suit
is sliced horizontally above the bust.
The halter neckline of a corseted, cone-bra cocktail dress
is made from the satin lapels of a tuxedo.
Fluid harem pants worn with a draped asymmetrical jersey dress.
Sahara-brown military suit with lace-up back.
Kenzo
by Antonio Marras
A shirtdress and a trench based on a kimono.
Obi belts.
The mixes of stripes, florals and checks.
The floor-sweeping sundresses.
Miu Miu
by Miuccia Prada
Echoes of YSL's notorious 1971 collection reflected in the color palette.
Armfuls of bracelets.
The languid line of a keyhole-neckline crepe dress.
Dietrich’s menswear-inspired style.
The masculine/feminine flared, cuffed cotton drill pants
paired with a fitted military jacket.
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